Afternoon visit

by Kevin Browne

Kula nuwun,
I offer shyly
to my next door neighbors,

a distinguished elderly couple,
my Javanese still tentative.
Mangga mangga, they reply,

of course, as I step slowly into
their large but modest village home.
Meaning to bring up my irritation

about their 4 AM chickens outside my window,
and drying rice on a mat in front of my house,
instead I hesitate and fumble for

conversation and to be polite
and deferential, as is expected
given our respective ages and positions.

My kind neighbor, who has been playing in
the neighborhood gamelan ensemble since
before World War II, the jaman Belanda,

and his sweet wife who thinks of me and
brings me food during their slametan.
Unable to be direct, and with my thoughts

becoming ngalor-ngidul, after a short while
I manage a last nyuwun pamit
and exit back into the afternoon heat.

Translations of the Javanese

Kula nuwun: literally “I ask your pardon,” but generally meaning “Hello,” announcing one’s presence at someone’s door
Mangga: come in, please (enter, etc.)
Jaman: time, era
Belanda: Dutch
Slametan: community gathering to mark important rites of passage
Ngalor-ngidul: literally “north-south”; idiomatically “jumbled”
Nyuwun pamit: ask permission (to leave), say goodbye

Kevin Browne is an anthropologist and writer currently living in Wisconsin, USA. This poem reflects experience from his early days of fieldwork in Yogyakarta, Indonesia.

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